Meo Vac: The Most Worthwhile Stop on the Ha Giang Loop

I realized after I got home that there are two ways to travel the Ha Giang Loop. The first is the way of a tourist, armed with a checklist of must-see spots, whose highest goal is to "conquer" the quintessentials of the loop and get the perfect photos. The second is the way of a traveler, one who doesn't come to conquer, but to be conquered by the land itself.

I’m ashamed to admit I started my journey the first way. In my naive plan, Meo Vac was just a name, a place to sleep for the night. But this land wouldn't allow for such shallowness. It forced me to turn off my engine, put away my camera, and learn to travel the second way. This isn't just a review; it's the story of that transformation.
 

Written by Oliver PHUNG (Local expert)Updated on 19-06-2025

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Where Is Meo Vac on the Ha Giang Loop?

On a map, Meo Vac is in the northern part of Ha Giang province, over 150 km northeast of the city center. It borders Đồng Văn to the west and shares a border with Cao Bang province to the east. Geographically, it's one of the four districts within the Đồng Văn Karst Plateau Geopark. But in the traveler's mind, it’s known as "the heart of the wild frontier." It's the strategic stop after you've passed through Dong Van, a place to take a deep breath before the most spectacular show that nature and its people have to offer.

What to See and Do While You’re Here

Ma Pi Leng Pass & Nho Que River

You can see a thousand pictures, but nothing compares to the feeling of actually standing on the Ma Pi Leng Pass. I killed the engine, and a majestic silence washed over me, broken only by the wind whistling past my ears, as if trying to blow away all my city worries. Before me lay an endless "forest" of jagged, cat-ear-like rocks.

At Ma Pi Leng pass, everyone knows about the Panorama Restaurant on this pass with its "million-dollar view". Enjoying a coffee while gazing at the panoramic canyon view is unbeatable. Although the concrete structure feels a bit out of place and the atmosphere can be hectic and commercial, the view from here is truly worth the stop.

But seeing it from above wasn't enough. I decided I had to get down there, to touch the emerald-green waters of the Nho Que River. It was an adventure within an adventure. The steep concrete slope from the pass down to the boat dock was more challenging than Ma Pi Leng itself, narrow, winding, and demanding with a steady hand.

All fatigue vanished the moment I stepped onto the motorboat and entered the Tu San Canyon. The perspective was a complete reversal from the top of the pass. Instead of looking down, I was now looking up, stunned by the two colossal cliffs that seemed ready to close above me. Despite the effort, the experience of floating on that turquoise water and gazing up at this natural wonder was completely worth it.

Lively Local Markets

I've always believed that "a market is the closest you can get to the local people", and the Meo Vac Sunday market proved it. I was lost in a culinary paradise of steaming pans of thắng cố (a traditional H'mong stew) and fragrant pots of phở. I had a bowl of black chicken phở with a young egg for 50,000 VND ($2). The noodles were hand-rolled, thick, and soft; the broth was rich, and the bowl of chẳm chéo, an indescribable herbal dipping sauce, was a revelation. The sight of kitchen smoke swirling under the market's high roof was cinematic.

Khau Vai Love Market

This isn't a market for buying and selling goods, but one for matters of the heart. It's a place where former lovers reconnect with old memories and new couples hope to find a spark. If you visit Khau Vai during the festival, you'll witness two parallel worlds. One is the bustling "Hoi," the public-facing, commercialized side designed for tourists.

But with patience, you can discover the true "Cho", the market's authentic soul. It reveals itself in quiet moments: a middle-aged couple sharing a cup of corn wine under a tree, lost in a silent understanding; the soulful melody of a mouth harp drifting from a hidden corner; or young couples shyly getting to know each other through traditional folk games and music.

My advice is to be a discreet observer. Resist the urge to point your camera into these intimate moments. If you watch with respect and an open heart, you will witness one of the most profoundly humane cultural traditions in the world.

Vuong Family Mansion

Along the road, the Vuong Family Mansion, home of the "H'mong King" Vuong Chinh Duc, appears like a fortress of blue stone, completely distinct from the surrounding homes. To me, it felt like a history book written in stone and wood. The mansion was built on a tortoise-shaped hill as a stronghold to protect a hoard of opium and silver. The architecture is a blend of French opulence and Chinese grandeur, but its soul remains H'mong. Standing amidst that extravagance, I felt the fleeting nature of a single lifetime, with the mansion now a silent witness to an entire historical era.

Dive Deep into Meo Vac's Vibrant Culture

Traditional Ethnic Villages & Local Life

After being awestruck by nature, I decided to search for something else: the soul of this land, woven from the lives of its people.

As I researched, Meo Vac's popular ethnic groups include: Hmong, Lo Lo, Giay, Dao, and Tay. Each ethnic group has its own unique culture. The first thing you can easily feel is through their costumes and house architecture. And on this trip I only had the chance to visit Hmong and Lo Lo villages. If I have the chance to come back, I will try to finish it :D.

I was stopped in my tracks by the image of small H'mong women carrying impossibly heavy baskets of corn on their backs, walking swiftly up steep slopes. Their vitality is as resilient and silent as the mountain rock.

My curiosity led me to the Lo Lo village in Sang Pa A hamlet. It was a quiet community, nestled on a mountainside with traditional rammed-earth houses and, most notably, the brilliant, intricate clothing of the women. For a more immersive, ancient H’mong atmosphere, a visit to Chung Pua village in Pa Vi commune is essential, where homestays have been converted from century-old houses.

Amid these discoveries, a particularly touching sight was of children playing with just a few pebbles, their laughter echoing through the valley. It reminded me that a simple connection is often more valuable than any material gift.

>>> Read More: The Hmong Ethnicity in Vietnam: History, Culture, and Language

Festivals and Cultural Experiences

Festivals in Meo Vac are an inseparable part of life. If you're lucky, you might catch the Gầu Tào Festival of the H'mong or the sacred Rain Praying Ceremony of the Lolo people. But the most famous is likely the Buckwheat Flower Festival (October - December), when carpets of pink and purple flowers stretch across the hillsides, creating a magical contrast with the thorny gray of the mountains. To me, it was the clearest proof that even stone can "blossom".

>>> Related Article: Hmong New Year in Northern Vietnam and Laos: What Makes It Unique?

Spend a Night in an Ethnic Homestay

This was the ultimate experience, elevating my trip from "sightseeing" to "living". I'll never forget the invitation from my H'mong host: "Rest for a bit, then come help me grind corn!"

So, this city guy found himself fumbling with a stone mill, understanding for the first time the hard work that goes into every grain of the mèn mén (a staple corn dish) I was about to eat. I sat by the wood fire, watching and helping his wife with small chores. I was no longer an observer; I was part of that kitchen.

And then, the "happy water" (corn wine) appeared. When language was a barrier, we "talked" with cheers of "dô, dô!" and smiles. My host didn't say much, but he played haunting melodies on his leaf-horn, telling the stories of the mountains.

When night fell, everything was silent beneath a sky free of light pollution, with billions of stars glittering overhead. The next morning, I ate breakfast with the family and said thank you from the bottom of my heart. I had arrived as a stranger but left feeling like a friend. That experience was more precious than any beautiful view.

>>> Read More: Cultural Immersion Through Homestays in Vietnam with Local Hosts

Essential Meo Vac Travel Tips

How to Get to Meo Vac & Getting Around?

For the international backpacking community, conquering the Ha Giang Loop by motorbike is a rite of passage. Rent a good bike and experience the "Happiness Road" with all your senses. Feel the history in every turn that was paid for in blood, sweat, and tears. Feel the freedom as the wind hits your face. It's an essential part of the story.

If you aren't confident in your riding skills, don't worry. Jeep tours are now available. You'll ride in a rugged Jeep, which is safer but still allows you to fully experience the atmosphere and scenery. A pre-planned itinerary means you don't have to worry about a thing.

Where to Stay: Accommodation Options

Accommodations in Meo Vac are diverse, focusing mainly on cultural homestay experiences, but there are also plenty of convenient guesthouses and hotels in the town center.

• Homestays: The most unique and popular choice.

This is the premier way to experience the area. In dedicated cultural villages like Pả Vi (Hmong village), Sang Pả A (Lo Lo village), Tát Ngà (Giay village), and Niêm Sơn (Tày village), these beautiful private rooms or bungalows with modern amenities and stunning views

• Hotels: A budget-friendly option for meeting other travelers.

Meo Vac doesn't have many large, bustling hotels like Ha Giang City. Instead, many of the homestays mentioned above are convenient for getting around. You can check out popular names like Hoa Cuong Hotel or Little Yen's Guesthouse for a simple, private room.

Key Travel Advice

• Bring Cash: Don't rely on ATMs here.

• Offline Maps: Download maps in advance (Google Maps or Maps.me are backpacker favorites). Cell service can disappear at any moment.

• Gifts for Children: Instead of candy and money, bring notebooks or colored pencils. They are much more meaningful gifts.

• Dress in Layers: Trust me, do not underestimate the cold in the mountains. I was unprepared and had to buy a jacket at a local market. Wear multiple layers so you can easily adjust.

• Combine Your Itinerary: If you have more time (5-7 days), you can extend your trip from Ha Giang through Meo Vac and on to Cao Bang to see the magnificent Ban Gioc Waterfall, creating an epic Northeast Vietnam adventure.

Budgeting for Ha Giang: Travel Costs Explained

This is the part most people are curious about. A trip to Ha Giang can be very budget-friendly or quite comfortable, depending on your choices. Here are the average costs to help you plan, based on my actual experience:

Transportation:

• Sleeper Bus (Hanoi - Ha Giang): Around $10 - $12 for a one-way ticket.

• Motorbike Rental: A standard automatic or manual bike suitable for the terrain will cost around $15 per day.

• Gasoline: For a typical 3–4 day loop through the province, budget about $10 - $12 for fuel.

• "Easy Rider" (Local Driver): If you prefer not to ride yourself, hiring a local driver with their motorbike costs around $25 - $30 per day, which includes the driver, bike, and fuel.

Accommodation

Mèo Vạc has seen a wonderful development in quality accommodations, with a focus on blending comfort with local culture.

• Community Tourist Villages: Cost from $35 to $60+ per night.

• Boutique Hotels & Guesthouses: Ranging from $15 to $30 per night.

Food & Drink

• Local Meals: Enjoying a local breakfast like phở or a simple lunch will only set you back a couple of dollars.

• Restaurant/Homestay Dinners: A full, satisfying dinner at a local restaurant or as part of your stay will typically cost around $7 - $9 per person.

• Daily Food Budget: You can eat very well for around $15 - $20 per person, per day.

Other Essential Costs

• Nho Que River Boat Trip: This is a must-do, with a fixed price of about $5 per person (120,000 VND).

• Entrance Fees: Most cultural sites, like the Vuong Family Mansion, have a small entrance fee of just a dollar or two.

If it’s your first time in Vietnam and you are too tired to plan your itinerary, book services, and calculate costs by yourself, there is a more convenient and easy solution, which is to book a tour. And at Kampá Tour, we can help you take care of everything you want with the best quality. All you have to do is choose a good day to come to Vietnam and prepare your luggage. We will take care of everything. Contact us today to enjoy the best deals.

Last words

Meo Vac in Ha Giang loop is not only a physical journey, but an emotional journey that goes from calm to the explosion of sensations, and that will surely make you exclaim "wow"! You will be amazed by the nature that surrounds you. This place awaits those brave hearts who enjoy challenges and adapting to the unexpected along the way.

We hope that with this detailed guide, based on my experience and advice, you won't need any other tips for your adventure. Have an unforgettable trip!

>>> Read more of my related articles on the topic of the Northern Mountains 🚌:

• Ha Giang Travel Guide 101
• The Hmong Ethnicity in Vietnam
• Don't Visit Cao Bang, Vietnam Without Knowing These 7 Things
• Sapa or Ha Giang: 9 key differences to consider before your trip
• Hmong New Year in Northern Vietnam and Laos: What Makes It Unique?